Experience beautiful home cooking that takes its cues from the kitchen gardens and forest harvests of the Pacific Northwest. Andrew Barton and his friends run Secret Restaurant Portland, a monthly supper club. After hosting dinners for five years, a culinary style emerged that reflected his practical approach to cooking: accessible recipes alive with flavor, lovely on the plate and the palate. The Myrtlewood Cookbook brings forth 100 recipes that amplify the tastes, colors, and textures of summer tomatoes, fall mushrooms, winter roots, and spring greens. Andrew joined us to share one of his culinary creations.
- Book Events for The Myrtlewood Cookbook
- Saturday, October 7 at 2:00pm
- Mother Foucault's Bookshop, 523 SE Morrison Street, Portland
- Sunday, October 15 at 2:00pm
- Powell's City of Books, 1005 West Burnside, Portland
For more information on the book, visit Andrew's website.
Sharp Cheddar and Arugula Scones
The basics of this scone recipe were cut out of a newspaper sometime in the 1970s. Aria shared it with me. Her mother had done the clipping, and in their house this was the only true scone. I spent many summers around that house and garden. The copied recipe, in Aria’s handwriting, still exists, weathered though it may be, held to my fridge with a magnet. We evolved it together through years of making it sweet and making it savory. This cheddar and arugula version came after I’d experienced several dissatisfying savory pastries in a row and remembered to create the change instead of waiting around for it to happen on its own.
- 2½ cups (340 grams) all-purpose flour, plus ½ cup (32 grams) more
- 1¼ tablespoons baking powder
- ½ teaspoon fine salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1½ cups (50 grams) densely packed wild arugula (you can also use parsley or a
- smaller quantity of rosemary and sage)
- 5 tablespoons (70 grams) cold unsalted butter
- 1. cup (115 grams) grated aged white cheddar cheese, such as Oscar Wilde cheddar from Ireland
- 2 eggs
- ¾ cup (170 grams) heavy cream
- ¼ cup (60 grams) milk
- ½ teaspoon flaky salt
- Combine 2½ cups of the flour, baking powder, fine salt, and cracked black pepper.
- Place the arugula, untorn, into a glass measuring cup and pack to ½ cups. Move out onto a cutting board and tear it into medium-small pieces with your hands into another bowl.
- At about this time, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
- Cut the butter (or rub with your fingers) into the dry mixture. Fold in the grated cheese, stir to coat each piece with the flour, then fold in the arugula.
- Beat the eggs in a bowl, then whisk in the cream and milk. Add the wet mixture to the dry mixture. Turn out onto a floured board, knead lightly until smooth, then roll or push out to form a tight circle about 1 inch thick. Using a cookie cutter, food mold, or cup, cut the dough into six large or eight to ten small, rounds. I think a large circle works best for these.
- Place the cut scones onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Using a pastry brush, brush the tops of each scone with milk, then add a sprinkle of flaky salt and a cracking of black pepper. Bake for 16 to 24 minutes, depending on size, at 400 degrees F. The point is, after 15 minutes, you must check them very frequently, rotating the pan as you do. Use a flat metal spatula to lift one up and check the bottom. It should be golden a little before the whole scone is done. Take them out and put them back in freely every 2 minutes or so until the scones feels right. They should be just turning golden around the edges, and cheese will have bubbled up here and there.
- Let sit approximately 5 minutes before eating. These are delectable on their own, turned into a fried egg sandwich, dipped into soup, or eaten with a cool, crunchy salad.
*(c)2017 by Andrew Barton and Peter Schweitzer. All rights reserved. Excerpted from The Myrtlewood Cookbook by permission of Sasquatch Books.